How to Enjoy a Tiki Bar Without Guilt

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Tonga Room and Hurricane Bar on the Fairmont San Francisco [source]

Tiki bars exist as we speak because of American violence and colonialism within the South Pacific. Regardless of this, they’re idyllic and peaceable areas the place you may sip on a tropical cocktail to flee out of your on a regular basis worries. The idealization and exotification of actual locations appear important to the escapism of tiki bars, so how can we justify the revival they’re experiencing as we speak?

Tiki bars are an American creation that takes rum from the Caribbeans, imagery from the Pacific Islands, and meals claiming to be from Asia to create the phantasm of a tropical paradise on the continent. They’re adorned with synthetic waterfalls, bamboo and rattan furnishings, statues vaguely depicting Polynesian deities, and plush synthetic tropical vegetation. The phrase tiki itself originated in New Zealand to consult with a carving of a primary man or a god. Nonetheless, the phrase has been appropriated to describe “any Polynesian carving with a largely human type, exaggerated options, and a menacing visage,” most of which are created in the USA.

Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gantt opened the primary tiki bar, Don the Beachcomber, in California in 1933. Gantt had traveled to the Caribbean and the South Pacific when he determined to “bring paradise” again to mainland America. Touring to these islands was not frequent then, so Grantt was capable of craft a fictional tradition that mashed collectively numerous traditions and offered it as a unified imaginative and prescient to clients who by no means left the continent. He began mixing what he referred to as Rhum Rhapsodies, which grew to become extraordinarily well-liked as Prohibition was simply ending. By 1937, he had legally modified his title to Donn Seaside, totally embracing the persona of the beachcomber.

The bottom half of a hand-drawn, hand-colored map of Polynesia. It is decorated with sea creatures, a shipwreck, and exoticized images of regional peoples. At bottom right sits a balding, light-skinned man with a mustache, facing left, alongside an overflowing basket of fruit and the logo of Don the Beachcomber.
Cowl element from Don the Beachcomber menu (1965) [source]

The tiki craze continued to develop within the coming many years. As World Battle II ended, troopers returned from the South Pacific with tales in regards to the folks they encountered whereas militarizing the Oceanic islands. A kind of veterans, James Michener, wrote Tales of the South Pacific, a set of brief tales primarily based on his expertise in Vanuatu. The e-book fueled the American obsession with the tropical islands, and its success led to variations into a musical and a movie. Across the similar time, in 1959, Hawaii grew to become a state. The next lifting of journey restrictions and the relative ease of flying there made the tropical life-style an attainable risk for a lot of Individuals. From there, along with the quintessential tiki bar, tiki-themed motels, bowling alleys, and residence buildings were sprouting all around the United States.

Individuals created tiki tradition for Individuals, doing with Polynesian tradition what they did to the phrase tiki itself: eradicating it from its context and utilizing it as a prop to create an undefined unique paradise. But, these problematic roots appear distant to us as we speak as tiki experiences a revival. First, it was at all times only a present—the tiki bar was by no means meant to precisely painting the environment and taste of precise tropical islands however create a definite fictional world the place Individuals may play at being on trip. Second, tiki has additionally change into a subculture of its personal. Immediately, tiki revivalists attempt to recreate the distinctive, retro-American tradition of tiki bars from the Nineteen Forties and Fifties. They don’t seem to be appropriating Polynesian artifacts and practices that impressed the unique motion however slightly the fictionalized tradition that resulted from the amalgamation of Polynesian, Caribbean, and Asian cultures.

These two excuses don’t absolve the revivalists. They’re nonetheless collaborating in (and actively making an attempt to revive) a motion that turned non secular Polynesian imagery into mass-produced receptacles for rum concoctions. Even so, tiki revivalism needn’t be seen as problematic. Appropriation isn’t important to it, so you may escape within the consolation of your subsequent Mai Tai with none guilt. However understanding why takes us by means of slightly extra historical past.

The Comforts of Escapism: Tiki and Kitsch

Tiki bars have been first popularized in Los Angeles, removed from the tropical islands they declare to imitate. Transporting the shoppers from the busy streets of Los Angeles to a quiet Polynesian seaside requires nothing wanting a spectacle. Martin Cate, proprietor of the San Francisco tiki bar Smuggler’s Cove, writes that distinction enhances the sense of escape: dramatic shifts from innocuous exteriors to extravagant interiors or from city settings to tropical gardens.

It’s no coincidence, then, that tiki bars thrived subsequent to Hollywood. Earlier than opening his bar, Donn Seaside labored as a technical advisor for movies set within the South Pacific, the place memorabilia from his travels grew to become film props. This air of inauthenticity is why tiki bars are sometimes considered kitsch. Kitsch is tough to outline, however it’s usually related to ornamental objects that evoke low-cost and false feelings, particularly when these objects are superficial imitations of one thing actual. For instance, “Stay Snigger Love” indicators used as residence décor are kitsch as a result of there’s something naive and candy about being uplifted by these three phrases. 

Literary critic Matei Călinescu characterizes kitsch as “a particularly aesthetic type of mendacity.” This suits tiki to a tee. The tiki bar lies about the place you’re and what time it’s: the windows are shut as a result of “the very last thing you need in your voyage … is to look out the home windows at roaring site visitors,” and lighting is saved dim to maintain the area “enveloped in perpetual twilight.” The tiki bar additionally lies about what a part of the world it’s making an attempt to move you to by mashing collectively knickknacks from across the globe to create unique scenes. Tiki makes use of its décor and imageries to not characterize part of the world however to create an phantasm. Cate actively resists calling tiki bars kitsch, and he could also be proper to take action—it’s “serious fantasy!”  Nonetheless, there are simple parallels between the 2.

In the identical means that something might be kitsch, something might be tiki.

Four hand-drawn and colored cocktails appear with prices: Tahitian rum punch (1.00), Vicious virgin (.95), Don's pearl (1.10), and Pearl Diver (1.10). All feature thematic embellishments, including a naked woman with a flower necklace sitting atop the coupe glass for the Vicious virgin.
Element from Don the Beachcomber menu (1965) [source]

Kitsch, in accordance with thinker Thomas Kulka, depicts topic issues which are emotionally charged in a readily recognizable option to simply set off feelings from its viewers. It depends on associations that we’re anticipated to make: the cuteness of kittens and the sweetness of infants, for instance, are frequent themes. Kitsch tries to offer unmediated entry to its material, not as a result of it desires to familiarize its viewers with the depicted object, however as an alternative as a result of it desires to impress an emotional response simply.

Kitsch should fulfill our current expectations to fire up constant and uniform emotional responses, as thinker Kathleen Higgins has argued. It triggers a way of belonging to a bigger world as a result of we really feel prefer it evokes feelings others will share. “In having fun with candy kitsch,” she writes, “one enjoys, not the item, however one’s personal mind-set.” For Higgins, kitsch is interesting due to what we deliver to our expertise: nice beliefs and needs that we stock inside ourselves and a way that the world is as great as it’s offered to be. The depiction of the subject material is just a method of invoking the viewers’s cultural associations to evoke a selected mind-set. That mind-set—the sensation of reassurance—is what makes kitsch interesting.

Very like kitsch, the attraction of the tiki bar doesn’t lie in its objects (its drinks or décor) however in what it triggers in us. The tiki bar is created for Individuals on the continent as an area for escapism; it deploys tropes and imagery that remind its clients of an unique paradise with out precisely depicting any actual tropical island. Tiki, like kitsch, isn’t involved with what it depicts or whether or not it depicts its topic precisely however with how we reply to it. The shopper, sipping on their extravagantly garnished cocktail, displays on how great it’s to dwell in a world the place you may escape to a wonderful island and go away your worries behind. Indulging on this phantasm and believing that it’s attainable is what makes the tiki bar so interesting. The palm fronds, the bamboo decorations, and the rum concoctions are solely there to facilitate this fantasy. We like tiki bars as a result of we like the concept of tropical holidays, and the objects and drinks within the tiki bar invoke the shoppers’ associations to fulfill their escapism.

Some objects are excellent at triggering these associations. Tiki bars usually characteristic pure supplies from the South Pacific: bamboo poles, sisal rope, and sea grass rugs. Nautical décor like anchors, ship’s wheels, and harpoons can adorn the partitions. In addition they usually embrace synthetic waterfalls, fountains, or aquariums. Water options deliver the shopper nearer to the seaside and immerse the area with enjoyable pure sound. Every part within the tiki bar ought to provoke your sense of journey. Take the Mai Tai, the quintessential tiki drink created by Dealer Vic, Donn Seaside’s up to date. A Mai Tai is historically adorned with a mint sprig and a lime shell (the hollowed-out half of the lime that’s juiced to make the drink). The garnish ought to, very actually, appear to be slightly tropical island (the shell) with a palm tree (the sprig) misplaced within the waves of your rum concoction.

Different objects solely fulfill our escapism due to the cultural associations that we deliver to the desk, and people have developed because the beginning of tiki and can proceed to evolve as our sensitivities change.

Tiki’s Exploitative Roots and Methods to Transfer Ahead

Within the ’40s and ’50s, tiki bars mimicked the unique, tropical, and harmful primarily based on what Individuals thought-about international and interesting on the time. We would fear that this fascination originates in harmful entitlement that sees international cultures as there for the American vacationer to discover and exploit. In spite of everything, Dealer Vic will get his nickname from buying and selling journey memorabilia for meals and drinks. And the quilt of Don the Beachcomber’s menu (above) depicts Donn Seaside as a domineering determine over the islands of the Pacific.

It’s onerous to not discover that the drinks menu for Don the Beachcomber additionally, slightly unnecessarily, deploys disturbing racist and sexist depictions of native Polynesian folks. However tiki’s exoticism was not restricted to the South Pacific. African masks and Melanesian figures grew to become a part of tiki décor since they have been unfamiliar sufficient to the American on the time to evoke the best feelings. They create “an environment of leisure, surprise, thriller, and even hazard,” which Cate writes is vital to a profitable tiki bar. The fascination with exoticism and escapism within the mid-twentieth century was naive however earnest, and it was due to this uncritical angle that tiki was capable of emerge. Similar to kitsch, tiki eliminated the complexities of its material. What was provided to the shopper, as an alternative, was an idealization.

Four more drinks appear: Dr. Funk (1.00), Zombie (2.00, Limit of two), Missionary's Downfall (.95), and Pi yi (1.85), which is served in a pineapple. The Zombie features a dark-skinned man with a grass loincloth, spear, and gold earrings and necklace, whose features are depicted in an exaggerated, minstrelsy style.
Element from Don the Beachcomber menu (1965) [source]

Growing world consciousness within the ’70s and ’80s led to the decline of tiki, which was seen as inauthentic and racist. Tiki flourished within the postwar context of an “uptight, conservative, conformist Eisenhower-era America” the place “concern of nuclear winter, concern of blacklisting through the Purple Scare, concern of lacking a fee in your 30-year-old mortgage, concern of not becoming dominated the day.” It’s subsequently no shock that, as tiki revivalist Jeff Beachbum Berry notes, the fantasy of escaping to a tropical paradise was a robust one. The necessity for such fantasy is one rationalization for why tiki is experiencing a revival as we speak. Whereas its comeback is usually attributed to the latest craft cocktail revolution, it additionally looks as if we particularly want an escape today.

What we affiliate with a tropical trip and what triggers our sense of escape has modified during the last century. Tiki, I consider, has little to do with Polynesian tradition, Hawaiian paradise, and Oceanic idols—these are simply the imageries that occurred to evoke escape and surprise within the ’40s and ’50s. Whereas these imageries are vital to the historical past of tiki tradition, tiki should now discover and make use of the cultural associations of the present age.

This type of updating occurs on a regular basis. We will see it within the evolution of elements that make up tiki drinks. Take fruits and juices. Donn began through the use of pineapple and fervour fruit. Later, guava and lychee grew to become extra frequent. Immediately, yuzu and dragon fruit make frequent appearances on the menu. In the identical means, the imageries that we will use evolve as nicely: we will take away appropriative non secular symbols and racist and sexist depictions of native folks with out dropping what makes tiki tiki.

Simply as there isn’t a object that’s inherently kitsch, there isn’t a object that’s inherently tiki: its standing and our enjoyment depend upon our personal states of thoughts. Nautical and tropical themes that don’t misrepresent vital cultural symbols can evoke our sense of escapism, possibly higher than the outdated imagery of the tiki bars of the earlier century. Or we may set up tiki bars round but different ideas. Robert Adamson, co-owner of the California tiki bar Robust Water Anaheim, explains that the décor of his bar consists merely of “issues that my spouse didn’t need in the home.” In drawing the parallels between kitsch and tiki, we will see that there are methods ahead for the motion.

Even so, some stage of idealization appears essential for each kitsch and tiki. Kitsch triggers a uniform emotional response in its viewers. This sentimentality requires that the subject material is oversimplified and typically misrepresented. As Higgins places it, kitsch should exclude what’s insupportable from its material, and our enjoyment of it should be unreflective. Equally, tiki requires that we put our worries apart and permit ourselves to be transported to tropical paradise. To replicate on the historical past of tiki imageries and the exploitative nature of the tradition would go in opposition to every little thing that tiki is about.

However the enterprise of making paradise requires that we search for it. Whereas Donn Seaside explored the South Seas to create his personal piece of heaven, tiki revivalists appear much less keen on Polynesia and extra within the fictionalized American model of it. They’re attempting to find tiki artifacts from the previous century in Los Angeles as an alternative of driving the excessive seas searching for treasure. And possibly that’s the best place to be trying: paradise isn’t discovered however created with rigorously chosen film props. Sven Kirsten, possibly essentially the most influential tiki revivalist, puts it this fashion: “These days—by means of the Web, tv, and documentaries—we’ve change into very conscious that paradise on earth doesn’t exist. Even these South Seas islands have their very own advanced issues and algorithm and weren’t as idyllic because the Western World wished them to be. However the human being created this phantasm as a result of it has an innate have to consider in paradise on Earth.” Tiki is about indulging within the perception that paradise can exist with a Mai Tai in a windowless bar between a car parking zone and a bus station.


Karim Nader is a postdoctoral affiliate on the Massachusetts Institute of Know-how. His analysis is on expertise, aesthetics, and ethics typically, and on digital actuality, video video games, and fiction particularly.



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